Amelia Simmons, author of American Cookery published in 1796, is credited with a pumpkin pudding recipe in a crust that would become the basis of today’s beloved pumpkin pie. While canned pumpkin is the simplest option for piemaking, it’s not complicated to master how to make a pumpkin pie using real pumpkin. Perhaps you’re itching to learn about making a pumpkin pie recipe from real pumpkin because you can’t find canned pumpkin (never forget the shortage of 2020!). On the other hand, maybe you prefer the flavor and thick, velvety texture of fresh pumpkin pie. Or perhaps you’re lucky enough to have a surplus of winter squash in your garden. For these reasons and more, we tapped our Test Kitchen baking experts to dish up their best tricks for the best pumpkin pie with fresh pumpkins.
Step 1: Choose a Pie Pumpkin for Fresh Pumpkin Pie
For jack-o’-lantern carving, the bigger the pumpkin, the better. This isn’t the case for the vegetables you’ll want to use in fresh pumpkin pie. Avoid ornamental varieties and large pumpkins, bred for size and looks, not flavor. Instead, choose those labeled as “pie pumpkins.” They are small, dense, and rich in color, with sweet, full-flavored flesh. Or consider these pumpkin varieties:
Baby Bear: Smaller (about 2 pounds) yet similar in shape to a carving pumpkin, these have soft orange flesh. Cinderella: Imagine these large pumpkins, often 10 to 25 pounds, as a classic pumpkin morphed into a flatter and wider version of itself. They’re less stringy than typical pumpkins and showcase naturally sweet flesh. Jarrahdale: Often used for decorations due to their unique blue-green matte hue, these 6- to 10-pound pumpkins have fruity, golden flesh and next to no strings. Dickinson: Similar in skin color and flavor to butternut squash, this is the variety that Libby’s and many other store-bought brands use for their canned pumpkin.
Supermarket cans of pumpkin often list “squash” on the ingredient list and may feature a mix of pumpkin and other sweet winter squash. Kabocha, butternut, acorn, buttercup, honeynut, and delicata squash work wonderfully if you can’t find one of the pumpkin species above. If the wall of your pumpkin is thick or the pumpkin is small in size, you might need two to fill your fresh pumpkin pie. (We always make a big batch of homemade pumpkin puree to use in pumpkin cakes, pumpkin mac and cheese casseroles, pumpkin soups, pumpkin cookies, and more.) Here’s a rough guide to the yield you’ll receive based on your particular pumpkin:
2½-pound pumpkin = 1¾ cups puree (equivalent to one 15-ounce can)3½-pound pumpkin = 2½ cups puree5-pound pumpkin = 2¾ cups puree6-pound pumpkin = 2¾ cups puree
Prime winter squash season runs from September through November, although some stores and markets offer them year-round. Look for pumpkins that are blemish-free and heavy for their size. Store them in a cool place up to 1 month.
Step 2: Make Pumpkin Puree for Fresh Pumpkin Pie
Transform any classic pumpkin pie recipe into a fresh one by swapping in an equal amount of Pumpkin Puree for the canned pumpkin called for in the recipe. However, before we dive any further into making pumpkin pie recipes with real pumpkin, we must mention that the flavor of the finished pie might differ ever so slightly from the rendition using canned pumpkin. Test Kitchen Tip: In side-by-side taste tests of fresh pumpkin pie vs. canned pumpkin pie, we found that fresh pumpkin pie can be a hint less sweet and slightly more vegetal (or squashlike, which certainly makes sense) in a pleasant way. We recommend baking your first batch following the traditional recipe and sampling a slice. The next time, adjust with more sugar or spices as desired. To make the puree, first cut up the pumpkin and bake it. Here’s how: Test Kitchen Tip: If your puree looks more watery than the canned type after blending, transfer it to a drinking glass. Invert the glass; it should stay molded but slightly slump at the bottom. If it’s too “loose,” try straining the puree through cheesecloth ($3, Target) to allow the excess liquid to drip off into a bowl for about an hour. Or transfer to a clean, thin kitchen towel and squeeze out the extra liquid. Feel free to roast and puree the pumpkin ahead. Store it in a covered container in the refrigerator up to 3 days. Or place the puree in freezer-safe jars or ziplock freezer bags, then freeze up to 6 months. Thaw the puree in the refrigerator overnight to use.
Step 3: Whisk Together the Filling for the Fresh Pumpkin Pie
Now that you have the pumpkin puree done, the filling is a 5-minute job. In a large bowl combine the pumpkin puree, sugar, spices, and salt called for in your recipe. Lightly beat the eggs with a whisk and whisk them into the pumpkin mixture just until combined. Stir in the milk just until combined. For using your fresh pumpkin pie filling, try one of our 24 best pumpkin pie recipes.
Step 4: Make the Crust
Most people consider homemade pastry the most challenging part of making a fresh pumpkin pie (or any pie, for that matter). While it takes a little practice, tender, flaky pastry isn’t difficult to achieve. Follow these pointers: Test Kitchen Tip: If you have a thin spot around your fresh pumpkin piecrust, use some dough scraps to press in, so the edge is as even as possible. Place a fork or a finger against the inside edge of the pastry for a fluted edge. Using the thumb and index finger of the other hand, press the pastry around the fork or finger. Continue around the circumference of the pie. (We have several more decorative edge ideas for your crust here!)
Step 5: Bake the Fresh Pumpkin Pie
You’ve already put a lot of love into this pumpkin pie recipe with fresh pumpkin, so why not add a few special garnishes when it’s time to slice and serve? We love a dollop of homemade Sweetened Whipped Cream, a scoop of Vanilla Ice Cream, plus a generous drizzle of Caramel Sauce.
