Supporting the garden theme, linen “Garden Roses” fabric from Suzanne Rheinstein’s collection for Lee Jofa drapes the table under her beloved weeping Chinese elm tree. Guests mingle in the warm light of summer, celebrating Suzanne’s garden at the height of its glory. Suzanne Rheinstein’s pretty luncheon setting inspired a menu based on those served at elegant summer homes in Montauk and Newport Beach during the famed Gilded Age of the late 19th century. The recipes incorporate master techniques popular in kitchens of days past—updated and made relevant for today. Try a velvety cocktail made with an egg white, delicate fish fillets cooked in parchment, and dessert that’s a rich combination of heavy cream, sugar, and fruit juice. Recipes by Chef Mary Payne Moran of Hail Mary, Food of Grace. Menu
Clover Club CocktailFresh Market CruditésPumpernickel BreadBrook Trout en PapilloteCold Braised Leeks with Sauce VictorTart Cherry PossetRosemary Shortbread Cookies
Shopping List We’ve organized a shopping list to make shopping for this party menu easier for you. Package sizes are included so you have enough for duplicated recipe ingredients. Check your pantry for these necessary items before shopping: Note: Unless specified, when we call for “butter” we mean the unsalted variety. When we call for “olive oil” we are suggesting good quality extra virgin. When we call for “eggs” we are suggesting large eggs. Unless specified, when we call for “milk” we mean whole-fat milk. Amounts for cocktail recipe are increased to make eight cocktails.
Granulated sugar (need 1-1/4 cups)Powdered sugar (need 3/4 cup)All-purpose flour (need 3-1/2 to 4 cups)Unsweetened cocoa powder (3 tablespoons)Mayonnaise (need 1/2 cup)Sour cream (need 1/2 cup)Olive oil (need 1-1/2 cups + 2 tablespoons)Honey (need 1/3 cup)Unsalted butter (need 1-1/4 cups [2-1/2 sticks] plus one stick for serving with pumpernickel bread)Vegetable oil (need 1-1/2 tablespoons)Garlic cloves (need 4)Kosher salt (need 3 teaspoons + to taste)Sea salt (for garnish)Freshly ground black pepper (need 3/4 teaspoon + to taste)Crushed red pepper flakes (need 1/4 teaspoon)Vanilla extract (need 1 teaspoon)
Specialty grocery store
1 package (four) Persian cucumbers6 ounces pitted green olives (from olive bar)Baby vegetables for crudités (unless purchased from farmers market)1 (3-ounce) package speck or prosciutto1 (32-ounce) bottle tart cherry juice
Produce
1 pint raspberries10 lemons (4 for juice for cocktails, 1 for zest, 1 for tapenade, 3 for fish, 1 for sauce)1 to 2 bunches fresh watercress8 small to medium leeks12 ounces green beans1 bunch fresh rosemary1 bunch thyme1 bunch fresh dill weed1 bunch basil1 bunch Italian parsley1 bunch mintSmall head radicchio, endive, or Little Gem lettuces
Grocery
1 box precut parchment paper (cookie baking sheets) or 1 roll parchment paper1 small jar capers1 (32-ounce) container chicken stock1 (2-ounce) tin oil-packed anchovy fillets1 (10-ounce) jar maraschino cherries
Baking aisle
1 package active dry yeastRye flour (need 1-1/2 cups)Whole wheat flour (need 1/2 cup)Caraway seedsWhole black peppercorns1 (2.75-ounce) package roasted salted pistachio nuts (or purchase from bulk aisle) (need 1/2 cup)
Fish monger
8 fresh brook trout (preorder; ask fish monger to remove heads, halve, and fillet)
Dairy section
1 carton pasteurized eggs or 1 (16-ounce) carton pasteurized liquid egg whites2 pints heavy cream
Alcohol
1 (750-milliliter) bottle top-quality gin1 (375- or 750-milliliter) bottle Kirschwasser (Only 1 teaspoon is needed for recipe; however, this is a nice liqueur for holiday cocktails and the occasional fondue. Try Clear Creek Cherry Brandy, available online.)
The addition of an egg white to the cocktail mixture is the master technique used. The egg white acts as an emulsifier, resulting in a foamy head and smooth, rich mouthfeel. Prep: 10 minutes
14 fresh raspberries4 slices peeled Persian cucumber (reserve peel for garnish)1-1/2 ounces Simple Syrup*3 ounces gin2 pasteurized egg whites or 1/4 cup pasteurized liquid egg whites1-1/2 ounces lemon juiceIce
In blender, combine 10 raspberries, cucumber slices, and Simple Syrup. Cover; blend until smooth. In cocktail shaker combine half of raspberry mixture, 1-1/2 ounces gin, 1 egg white, and 3/4 ounce lemon juice. Cover; shake without ice (dry shaken) until mixture no longer sounds sloshy (pressure will build). Add ice. Shake until very cold. Strain into cocktail glass. Thread 2 raspberries and a sliver of rolled cucumber peel onto pick for garnish. Repeat for second drink. Makes 2 servings. *Tip: For Simple Syrup, in screw-top jar combine 1/4 cup sugar and 1/4 cup water. Screw on lid; shake well until sugar is dissolved. Scour the farmers market for fresh, just-harvested baby veggies. The carrots, snap peas, tomatoes, radishes, and broccoli suggested here are starting points to lovely crudités. Look for tiny vegetables with greens still attached and resist the urge to do anything more than clean them properly. The flavor and beauty are heightened by their natural state. Serve slices of speck or prosciutto on the side, if desired. Hands On: 40 minutes Total Time: 1 hour 40 minutes including chilling time Watercress Dip:
2 cups watercress1/2 cup mayonnaise1/2 cup sour cream1 teaspoon lemon zest
Green Olive and Rosemary Tapenade:
6 ounces pitted green olives (1-1/2 cups)1/2 cup olive oil1-1/2 tablespoons capers (rinsed)1 tablespoon lemon juice1 clove garlic, minced1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 to 2 teaspoons snipped fresh rosemary
Fresh Market Crudités (Purchase whatever is freshest in the market):
8 radishes, halved8 Little Gem lettuce leaves, washed and separated8 baby heirloom carrots, cleaned24 snap peas, cleaned3 small heirloom tomatoes, cut in 4 wedges each8 small bite-size colorful cauliflower florets16 small radicchio, endive, or Little Gem leaves (for sauce cups)16 slices speck or prosciutto (optional)Pumpernickel Bread and creamery butter
For Watercress Dip, in food processor combine watercress, mayonnaise, sour cream, and lemon zest. Blend until mostly smooth. Refrigerate 1 hour before serving. For Green Olive and Rosemary Tapenade, in food processor or blender, combine pitted green olives, olive oil, capers, lemon juice, garlic, and pepper. Cover and pulse until chunky paste forms. Transfer tapenade to serving dish; stir in rosemary. Refrigerate 1 hour before serving. For Fresh Market Crudités, arrange 8 plates with market vegetables and speck (if using). On each plate, use two small radicchio leaves as cups for Watercress Dip and Green Olive and Rosemary Tapenade. Serve with Pumpernickel Bread and creamery butter. Makes 8 servings. The bread loaf baker from Emile Henry is fashioned from glazed Burgundian clay. Its shape and construction mimic the humidity conditions of a traditional bread oven, resulting in a dry, crispy crust and soft inside. Prep: 20 minutes Rise: 2 hours 15 minutes Bake: 50 minutes to 1 hour at 375°F
1-1/4 cups warm water (105°F to 115°F)1/3 cup honey1-1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil1 package active dry yeast1-1/2 to 2 cups all-purpose flour1-1/2 cups rye flour1/2 cup whole wheat flour3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder1 tablespoon caraway seeds1-1/2 teaspoons kosher saltUnsalted butter, softenedFresh thyme leavesSea salt
In large bowl combine warm water, honey, oil, and yeast, stirring to dissolve yeast. Let stand 10 minutes. Add 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, rye flour, whole wheat flour, cocoa powder, caraway seeds, and kosher salt. Stir with wooden spoon until combined. Turn dough onto lightly floured surface. Knead in enough remaining all-purpose flour to make a stiff dough that is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes total). Place in lightly greased bowl that is at least double the size of dough, turning to coat surface. Cover; let rise in warm place until double in size (1 to 1-1/2 hours). Punch down dough. Let rest 10 minutes. Meanwhile, grease 9-inch loaf pan. Shape dough into loaf. Place in prepared pan. Lightly sift additional all-purpose flour over dough. Using sharp knife, make shallow slashes in top of loaf. Cover; let rise in warm place until nearly double in size (about 45 minutes). Preheat oven to 375°F. Bake loaf 50 to 60 minutes or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in center of loaf registers 190°F to 200°F. Remove bread from pan. Cool completely on wire rack. Serve with butter sprinkled with thyme and sea salt. Makes 12 servings. Note: You may need to trim the “knobs” on the bottom of the loaf that result from the holes in the baker. Placing the seasoned fish inside folded parchment paper is a master technique called “en Papillote.” We’ve simplified the method with an easy folding technique and—surprise!—paper clips. Baked in parchment paper to delicate fork-tenderness, this brook trout is served with green beans and pistachios. Hands On: 30 minutes Total Time: 45 minutes
8 sheets precut parchment paper (cookie baking sheets) or 8 (14-inch) squares of parchment paper12 ounces green beans, trimmed8 fresh brook trout, heads and spines removed, split into fillets (16 fillets total)1/2 teaspoon kosher salt1/2 teaspoon cracked black pepper24 lemon slices1/2 cup fresh dill weed sprigs1/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into small cubes1/4 cup olive oil1/2 cup roasted salted pistachio nuts
Preheat oven to 400°F. Place parchment on work surface. Fold parchment in half crosswise. Crease parchment at fold; then unfold. In large saucepan, cook beans 3 minutes in enough boiling water to cover; drain. Recipe continues on next slide Remove fish from oven; open packets. Transfer fish and green beans to serving plates with large spatula. Turn top fillet flesh side up. Drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with pistachios. Serve with Cold Braised Leeks with Sauce Victor. Makes 8 servings. Sauce Victor was the 1904 creation of chef Victor Hirtzler for the St. Francis Hotel in San Francisco. Here, it is used as both a marinade and dressing. Braised vegetables, served cold, were classic side dishes on formal summer luncheon menus of the Gilded Age. Fennel, celery, leeks, and cipollini onions are all great candidates for this method and the delightfully bright and herbaceous sauce. Prep: 15 minutes Cook: 15 minutes Stand: 30 minutes Marinate: 2 hours Braised Leeks:
Parchment paper 2 tablespoons olive oil8 small to medium leeks, rinsed, trimmed, and halved lengthwise4 cups chicken stock1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh basil1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns1/2 teaspoon kosher saltOne recipe Sauce Victor2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh basil Sea salt or fleur de sel
Sauce Victor:
3/4 cup olive oil1/4 cup lemon juice10 canned oil-packed anchovy fillets, minced3 cloves garlic, minced1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakesKosher saltFreshly ground black pepper
For Cold Braised Leeks, in 12-inch high-sided skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add leeks, cut side down. Cook 5 minutes or until browned. Turn leeks over. Add chicken stock, chopped basil, peppercorns, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Bring liquid to boil; reduce heat to simmer. Cover leeks with parchment paper*. Simmer 15 minutes or until leeks are just tender. Remove leeks from liquid; discard liquid. Drain leeks on wire rack placed on a baking sheet until all liquid is gone. Place leeks in 3-quart baking dish. Cover with Sauce Victor. Marinate in refrigerator 2 hours. To serve, remove leeks from sauce and place on serving platter. Garnish leeks with parsley, sliced basil, and kosher salt. Transfer remaining Sauce Victor to serving bowl. Serve with chilled leeks. For Sauce Victor, whisk together all ingredients, seasoning with salt and pepper. Let stand 30 minutes. Makes 8 servings. *Tip: Before cooking, trace around pan lid on parchment paper and cut out a round big enough to fit just inside pan. If there is no lid, tear a square of parchment just larger than the pan. Fold in eighths. Trim outside edge so that when unfolded, it will be a circle. A surprising garnish swiped from the cocktail cart brightens up the presentation: chopped maraschino cherries tossed with mint. Prep: 30 minutes Chill: 2 hours to 24 hours
4 cups heavy cream1 cup granulated sugar1 cup tart cherry juice1/2 cup chopped maraschino cherriesTorn fresh mint leaves1 teaspoon Kirschwasser (cherry brandy) (optional)
In 5- to 6-quart pot combine cream and granulated sugar. Bring just to boiling, stirring to dissolve sugar. Reduce heat to simmer. Cook, uncovered, 10 minutes or until slightly thickened, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Stir in cherry juice. Pour posset into 8 to ten 3- to 5-ounce glasses or serving dishes. Let cool. Cover with plastic wrap. Chill 4 to 24 hours or until set. In a small bowl, toss maraschino cherries with mint and Kirschwasser. Cover; chill until serving. To serve, top posset with cherries and mint. Serve with Rosemary Shortbread Cookies. Makes 8 servings. Note: Chill any remaining posset up to 3 days. Prep: 20 minutes Chill: 2 hours Bake: 15 minutes at 325°F
1 cup butter, softened3/4 cup powdered sugar3 to 4 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary1/2 teaspoon kosher salt1 teaspoon vanilla extract2 cups all-purpose flour
For cookies, in large bowl beat butter with mixer on medium to high speed 30 seconds. Add powdered sugar, rosemary, and salt. Beat on medium speed until light and fluffy. Beat in vanilla. Beat in flour on low speed until mixture starts to cling together (may appear crumbly but will come together with continued beating). Shape dough into two 9-inch logs. Wrap in plastic wrap. Chill 2 to 24 hours or until firm enough to slice. Preheat oven to 325°F. Slice dough 1/2 inch thick and place slices 1 inch apart on ungreased cookie sheets. Bake 15 to 17 minutes or just until edges start to brown. Remove; cool on wire racks. Makes 40 cookies. Note: Store in an airtight container at room temperature up to 3 days or freeze up to 1 month.
